Wood Finishing Techniques and Advice
Written by Greg Williams Monday, 13 June 2016 00:00
In looking over some of the correspondence I’ve received from readers of this column for the last seven years or so, I noticed that many of the questions asked can be answered by reviewing the basics of wood finishing. Among the issues most often raised are: What is the best (finish, topcoat, stain, filler and sandpaper) to use? How do I (perform some task)? What went wrong?
Written by Bob Flexner Monday, 16 May 2016 00:00
Finishes deteriorate as they age. First they dull, then they begin to craze and crack. Over a very long period of time, finishes deteriorate because of contact with oxygen called “oxidation.” But bright UV light — especially sunlight and fluorescent light — accelerates the deterioration so much that you can reasonably think of the deterioration as caused by light alone.
Written by Greg Williams Monday, 11 April 2016 00:00
Today, most finishers use wax filler sticks that can be melted and dripped into a void. For small defects, such as open joints and scratches, the filler sticks can be rubbed vigorously into the void before leveling. While the wax formulations have the least durability of the fillers we’ll explore, some of the harder versions are solid enough to serve in relatively low-wear areas if they are coated with a durable topcoat.
Written by Bob Flexner Monday, 14 March 2016 00:00
In my last column, I wrote about green paint strippers based primarily on the solvent n-methyl pyrrolidone (NMP). The word “green” is used to indicate the solvent is less harmful to breathe and less harmful to the environment.
Written by Greg Williams Monday, 15 February 2016 00:00
Recent changes in solvent regulations could affect how you use thinners, reducers, retarders and flow-enhancing additives.
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